I finished dealing the Westerfield I-GN boxcar, and added an overcoat of Future floor polish followed by a coat of Vallejo Matte clear. I think it makes a nice addition to the "late 1920s" roster.
I think I'm going to hold off on weathering the car until I get some other half-finished freight car projects completed.
About The Steam Era Freightcars Blog
This blog discusses all aspects of North American freight cars of the steam era, from the dawn of railroading through 1960.
It is intended to support the efforts of model railroaders who wish to produce the most prototypically accurate freight cars possible.
Prototype modelers are encouraged to participate in this blog. Please consider sending photos of prototypes and your efforts to model them, reviews of kits, books and other products, “articles” about your modeling efforts – with or without photos. The nature of blogging means the material can be "real time," and in-process models can be shared. These are not only welcomed, but appreciated as we all love to see a model develop over time.
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For more information or to submit information email steamfreightcar@gmail.com.
Showing posts with label Missouri Pacific. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Missouri Pacific. Show all posts
Sunday, September 3, 2017
Tuesday, August 22, 2017
Westerfield I-GN Boxcar
As I was sorting and packing some of the smaller items that reside in various small plastic containers, I came across the decals for a Westerfield International Great Northern 40-foot single sheathed boxcar that I'd built almost two years ago.
Having no idea how the decals ended up separated from the car, and knowing full well that it would happen again if I didn't take drastic measures, I opted to spend a pleasant hour or so this past Sunday evening getting the decals on one side of the car. Side #2 has since been completed.
For the record, and my reference, the car was painted with a base coat of Vallejo "Boxcar Red" sold by Micro-Mark. The Vallejo labels reveals they refer to this color as "Rust." The paint was allowed to dry completely (although the 26 months this paint dried may have been excessive!) before I hit the model with an airbrushed coat of Future clear acrylic (or whatever they're calling it this week).
When this photo was taken I hadn't yet "snuggled"* the decals in place, which is why there's so much decal film showing. When I decal a car I like to leave it on the modeling desk for a week or so - every evening I'll add another application of Microscale setting solution. After a few days of this most of the film disappears.
Once the decaling was complete I added an overcoat of Future floor polish, followed by a coat of Vallejo Matte clear.
I'm going to hold off on weathering the car until I get some other half-finished freight car projects completed.
I'm going to hold off on weathering the car until I get some other half-finished freight car projects completed.
Sharp-eyed freight car fanatics will note this car is lettered to reflect lettering styles that predate my typical 1950s roster.
No further comment on that at this time.
*When I was on the Model Railroader staff we were always debating the best way to describe of process of softening decals using settling solution to get them to conform to the various details, ridges, rivets and the like. Somehow, someone (likely Jim Kelly, it sounds like something he'd come up it!) suggest the term "snuggling" the decals....it stuck.
Saturday, January 19, 2013
Tips & Tricks: Future To the Rescue?
By Marty McGuirk
Building rolling stock is
perhaps my favorite part of the hobby. Since I profess to like it so much, you
shouldn’t be surprised that I think building, painting and decaling a
single-color boxcar should not be that much of a challenge. Then I ran into
this project – a Missouri Pacific 10-6” 40-foot boxcar.
The origin is one of the
Sunshine Models “doorprizes” from the Naperville Railroad Prototype Modelers
shows Martin and Patricia Lofton sponsored for years.
These varied by year - some are loads, and one year it was a complete CB&Q flat car, but most have been an assortment of resin details (doors, ends, etc . . .) to convert an injection molded plastic car to some specific prototype. I have ten or so of these and they all produce some pretty neat and unusual transition era freight cars.
These varied by year - some are loads, and one year it was a complete CB&Q flat car, but most have been an assortment of resin details (doors, ends, etc . . .) to convert an injection molded plastic car to some specific prototype. I have ten or so of these and they all produce some pretty neat and unusual transition era freight cars.
The building process went remarkably well. The door prize parts were installed on an undecorated InterMountain 10’-6” AAR boxcar, and I even replaced most of the Intermountain
details (ladders, brake rigging and the like) with after-market parts. I rearranged the brake components to match
the prototype (which differed from the stock Intermountain arrangement and
fashioned the underbody piping from appropriate sized brass wire.
I photographed the finished, but unpainted car and then sprayed the model with Polly Scale acrylic paint. Then, like usual, I gave the model a clear gloss coat (Polly Scale Clear Gloss) and applied the decals. I finished decaling and applied the final clear flat overcoat. Since I didn’t have a spray booth, and didn't have any Polly Scale Flat Clear, I used Testor’s Acryl Clear Flat – which is a brand more commonly used for military models and the only one available from the closest hobby shop.
It was the first time I tried using this stuff (lesson learned, experiment
on old Athearn “blue box,” not a model you care about!). Whatever the cause, when the stuff dried it
left a visible, white, streaky haze. Perhaps I got an old bottle of the stuff.
What a mess.
I studied the model, and figured the basic car was worth the effort to strip and refinish it. But recently I’d been reading in FineScale Modeler about using Future Floor (now marketed as “Pledge with Future Shine) as a decal clear coating. I have some of the stuff, so I figured I had nothing to loose. If it worked, great, if not, it was just one more layer to strip. I lightly brushed a coat of Future on the sides and left it to dry overnight.
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